Gucci Fall/Winter 2013 is all about the smokey eyes, sumptuous fabrics, impeccable tailoring, and a dark, hard glamour. But it could very well describe Gucci’s Fall/Winter 2012 collection, or for that matter, 2011 as well. Dark romance has been the code-word for three seasons now, and although it does feel familiar, Frida Giannini has always managed to keep it fresh by allowing herself to be influenced and inspired by different eras, exploring and highlighting different facets of the genre, and serving up a collection we’re still crazy about.
Described as a ‘demure, couture-inspired silhouette with a subversive undertone’, what we saw was mystery and strength. This girl’s definitely got it all; perfectly put-together in a fitted skirt suit, an hourglass dress that emphasizes hips, a beautiful off-the-shoulder coat in pied-de-poule and that unmistakable impeccably up swept ponytail. But that’s not all she is. Her skirt suit’s got a slit up to there in the back, we spy leather and python turtlenecks beneath those refined coats, her dresses are body-con matched with fishnet stockings, and oh, those spike-heeled dominatrix booties.
The mystery lies in having a sense of who she is, but not quite knowing what her business is, or where she’s going.
As we move on past that to the evening, the fishnets that played peek-a-boo previously now took centre stage. Skirts were kept simple and fluid with a silky, satiny sheen, to complement the tops that were given the couture treatment. Thousands of sequins, beads and exotic bird feathers were painstakingly hand-sewn onto netted tops to become fantastical creations.
As Anja Rubik took to the runway in the finale piece; a breathtaking full-length couture-grade netted gown in feather gradations of blue, turquoise, black and teal, I saw a phoenix rising, and our imaginations were set on fire.
Images: Gucci, GoRunway