“I think when you have a voice and you want to have a voice, you cannot just kind of walk around and do your thing,” so said Raf Simons of the impetus his New York debut exhibits. “When you have a voice, you should use it.” That’s exactly what he did. His namesake label marched on with a fearlessness of which fashion desperately needs. The no-holds-barred Fall-Winter 2017 collection was the menswear renegade’s homage to the city he resides in today as he takes the reins at Calvin Klein.
Our favourite takeaways? The collection’s touristy naïvete towards the city that never sleeps that’s said through elements of power dressing: Glinting duct tape belts printed with the New York skyline and slouchy sweaters knitted with the touristy “I ♡ NY” smack-dab in the middle are juxtaposed with the crisp tailoring of crombie coats and the matter-of-factness of Raf Simons Youth Project graphic tees. No one ever does DIY punk quite right the way Simons do, and it is why the fashion set worships on the sub-cult altar of his.
Doubling as a coy message that speaks against the current political reality, Raf seemed to tell us to buckle up, take our stance, and face it head on — both a genuine greeting and a toast to solidarity in the face of a looming, bleak future. Loud and proud.
Video: Raf Simons