“Reclaim your heritage, beauty is a birthright,” stated a patchwork pasted on a grey billowing wool cape. Then on a gushingly pink sweater, and again on a seemingly plain checkered shirt, only to find the slogan embellished with sequins. Set against the Ivy-League-scholar preppy confection and earthy tones of moss to mustard, the DIY-minded patches seemed off-kilter — yet profoundly reflective of the current polarised times.
If you’ve been thinking where you’ve seen those anarchic typography before, that’s exactly what Pierpaolo Piccioli wants you to ponder about. Flying to Liverpool in a mission to revive a punk state of mind, Piccioli scouted Sex Pistols’ graphic designer Jamie Reid to come up with two slogans in the font any ‘70s music maverick would nod in delight at.
“Men have definitely changed more than women in the last two decades. I started this collection by going back to the idea of the gentleman,” Piccioli mused on his collection. “To me, today it means to be a gentle man. Gentleness is an expression of freedom. Expressing your fragility is the new strength.” It’s true that we no longer have the privilege to sit back, do nothing and put a blind eye on all this mess. Every move does signify something, and it’s great that fashion is dawning on this — albeit doing so through ankle-grazing duster coats and vibrant sneakers. With Maria Grazia Chiuri heading the design at Christian Dior, fashion’s favourite creative duo may no longer tread the same path, but Piccioli is coming into his own just nicely.
After all, a Valentino brown cap did proclaim that “It seemed to be the end, until the next beginning.”
Images: Valentino, Marcus Tondo