There is this sort of a dark vampiric seduction-biker glam chic going on at what Stefano Pilati probably wouldn’t have known was his last collection for Yves Saint Laurent. Pale-faced, dark-lipped, and slicked back hair, there was a certain severity about the models that personified his Fall Winter 2012 presentation.
Predominantly black, with a liberal showing of leather and interspersed chain mail, waists were often cinched with a belt that would have been; if just a little tighter, restrictive. But even then, that would have been okay, for that discipline Pilati was pursuing. As a result, shoulders were accentuated, either because of the nature of leather, which were fashioned into long-sleeved tops that seemed simple enough to execute but gave so much presence, or the deliberate accentuation of coat lapels.
Ironically, the only motif he chose for this collection was the calla lily, which is often meant for those who suffer a death before their time. I’m truly sorry to see Pilati go. His collections were never, if ever, fancy. But I always got the sense that his inspirations come from a bygone era of smoky glamour, never deviating too far from the house’s signature. And he understood quite perfectly how modesty is a dignified commodity.
Images: Yves Saint Laurent